Likely I have having the best winter vacation ever. We picked up Zakopane (Poland) tour somewhat instinctively and we really didn’t know what was awaiting for us there. We only knew Poland is a country and such a distinctive nation we always like to visit. Besides, there is no snow in Minsk, but harsh chill and we wondered how cold must be in the Tatra mountains.
Well, we left Minsk one early morning by an old Setra bus and met evening in Warsaw. The very next day we were in Krakow and then in evening at last we reached Zakopane. It was like we suddenly found ourselves in an amazing Christmas fairy tale. Before us spread a magnificent mountain-bound valley. It sparkled with myriads of lights from huts and Christmas trees muffled closely with pure white snow. Mountains like shadows of taciturn white-headed giants inclined over the valley. Above them there were only bright silver stars. The next morning dazzling sun, shined on snow-clad narrow streets overfilled everybody with energy and mountains, appeared that time in all their’ glory called us almost naturally. It was astonishing weather. It was like Pushkin’s “So, frost and sun, the day is wonderful…”, but without frost. There were sun, deep abundant snow anywhere, unusually clear air, blue sky and it was warm enough outside.
It was the very time to get to know Zakopane. Zakopane (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zakopane) is well-known as the Winter capital of Poland. It’s not a big town, which lies at the feet of the Tatra Mountains, which is the only alpine mountain range in the Carpathian Mountains. Zakopane region is populated by Gorals, a highlander ethnic group. You can see anywhere in Zakopane men in trousers of sheep's skin with ornamental flowers. They are the Gorals in their national dresses. I hadn’t seen Goral women, but there was anywhere result of their work – fancy needlework.
But what is the most famous about Zakopane that is winter resort to ski.
There are 6 separate ski areas in Zakopane: Gubalowka, Polana Szymoszkowa, Butorowy Wierch, Antalowka, Kasprowy Wierch and Nosal.
You can begin from Gubalowka (http://www.tatra-dreams.co.uk/piste_map.htm). The center mall of the town, Krupowka (http://www.zakopane-life.com/map/map.php) rests on Gubalowka’s funicular railway. When you have been lifted on the top of the mountain you will see tremendous panorama. You will able to take some gzhane piwo (a kind of spiced hot beer) in the one of taverns and have a rest over the valley breathing pure mountain air under warm tender rays of the sun. You will found numberless souvenir shops there and a lot various attractions. Of course there are ski traces there. I saw some slopes for beginners and tried one. There was traces for intermediates as well beneath on the slope. You can rent mountain ski and snowboard near every slope – about 7-10zl (3-4$) for an hour. So there are no problem with that.
Most of our group people spent all time on Polana Szymoszkowa. It has one chair-lift for beginners and 4 for intermedias.
I heard nothing of Butorowy Wierch, except it has 1660 meters 2 man chairlift taking 720 people per hour to the top of the Butorowy Wierch.
Antalowka area has a collection of beginners POMA’s and trainer tows. We lived in a cozy hotel Kubik on a street with funny name Pardolowka in the area, but found no attractive slops for myself there.
Kasprowy Wierch is the most beautiful place of the region in my opinion. You can get there by microbus #3 or #20. Near route terminal (Kuznice) you will find cable car station. It will lift you on the top of the mountain (one ticket up/down costs 38zl – 15$). I have no word to describe my expressions of view which opens up before your eyes there. I felt like in a film by National Geographic on the very top of mountains, so close to the sky, so far from the reality.
It has a lot ski slops with 1,5 - 4 km pistes and all of them looks really terrible for me.
The last area in the list is Nosal. It’s not far from the center and as for me it has best slops for beginners (200-300m) and excellent chairlift providing a run of 700m for intermediates.
You should know winter days in Zakopane finish at 3-4 p.m. So rest of the time you can rest in SPA (Jagelonska, 31) or in numerous night clubs.
We were in Zakopane on Christmas and that was especial time. You know the Polishes is one of the most pious nations. You can see no Polish outside 24th December in the afternoon – all of them are at home with their families awaiting for the first star on the sky to begin vigilia. Then at night all of them go to the church. I has to say I was really expressed as a man of atheistic nation. 200 years ago my nation had many creeds. 80 years ago communists tried destroyed all ideas in people mind except communistic one and they obliterated traditions. Later they were forced to return some of traditions, but all of them were transformed by soviet propaganda. So little part of today’s Belarus population even know when Christmas comes and what it is. We celebrate only New Year Eve. Instead of Santa, some strange Frost Grandfather is supposed coming to children. 100 years ago Byelorussian children waited Santa Nikolas as Polish kids do now. And you know it’s important. Most of our people know nothing of our history. If you ask a Byelorussian tourist where is he from he will likely answered he is Russian. It’s fair since culture of our people abroad as low as Russian people culture. I can’t help to stop thinking how history made different nations Polish and Byelorussian, that were the same one 200 years ago. Without belief in God, without self-esteem, national self-consciousness we ceased to be a nation. We just people who somewhat live. But such a foreign trip is a great opportunity for upcoming people to know where we can aspire to.
